| Do
It Yourself! |
These instructions are meant as guidance only.
Here at the Rock Shoppe we offer FREE one on one
instruction for installing any product we sell.
In addition, we offer FREE classes on site
throughout the season.
Check out our classes for 2008!
Email us for further information.
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Install
A Pond
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- Select
a location for your pond. Good drainage is a must.
- Standing
inside the pond, mark the pond's perimeter on the ground
using an edger, shovel, or chalk.
- Dig
a corresponding hole a little larger and deeper than
what you've marked. Be sure the excavation has a firmly
compacted base.
- Bed
the pond on a layer of sand and then level.
- Backfill
with loose dirt or sand between the pond and excavation,
stopping at the half-way mark between the excavation
base and the pond's flange.
- Begin
slowly filling with water and continue backfilling.
Gauge your timing so the filling and backfilling steps
are finished at the same time.
- Landscape
with rocks, plants, fountains, or low voltage lighting,
as desired.
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| (Keep
in mind that most plants prefer 4-6 hours
of sunlight.) |
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| (For
molded shelf ponds, replicate the pond's contour
within the excavation and make sure to fully
support the shelf with tightly packed sand
or dirt.) |
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| (If
water is chlorinated, allow 24 to 48 hours
before adding plants or fish.) |
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Tip
#1
A
layer of washed, lightly colored stone may be arranged
within the pond prior to stocking. Dirt and sediment
will rest upon the rocks and become less noticeable.
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Tip#2
You
can install 2 or more ponds edge to edge for a more
dramatic look.
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Tip
#3
Ponds
can balance naturally to eliminate stagnation by utilizing
a combination of marginal, water lilies and oxygenating
plants. Keep aquatic plants in pots and check with an
aquatic plant supplier for suggestions as to which plants
will give you the best mix.
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Tip
#4
A
recirculating pump aerates water and inhibits insect
breeding. The pump's electrical cord can be buried from
sight by drilling a hole in the pond slightly above
the highest water level. Then thread the cord through
the pond's side and enjoy!
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Build
a Retaining Wall
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- It
is important to start with a good level base. Begin
by digging a trench that is approximately 7" deep
and 12" wide. Then compact about 5" of gravel
in the trench. Add 1" of sand to the trench to
make leveling easier.
- Install
the first layer of wall bricks (with the interlocking
lip removed) lip side down in the trench. Level each
stone as you place them and make sure the outside edges
touch.
- Lay
the second layer of wall bricks, offsetting 1/2 the
base of the stones. The interlocking lip should face
down.
- Back
fill and compact soil as you complete each layer of
wall bricks. A landscape fabric placed directly behind
the wall bricks will prevent fine soil from washing
through the joints.
- The
final layer of wall bricks should be adhered with concrete
adhesive. Backfilling should continue until level with
the top of the final layer. The landscape fabric should
also be cut off level with the top of the final layer.
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| (To
split the lip off of wall bricks, score the unit
where the split is desired using a brick chisel
and hammer. Chisel back and forth over score line
striking more firmly until unit splits.)
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| To
Build
a Concave Curve:
For an inside or concave curve, scribe an arc
from a radius point. Place the face of the first
layer along the arc with the face of each unit
butted together. |
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| To
Build a Convex Curve:
For
an outside or convex curve, scribe an arc from
a radius point. Place the back of the first unit
along the arc with the back of each unit separated.
this will create a gap joint in the rear of the
wall that will be reduced as the wall increases
in height. |
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